Yarn can be spun in one of two directions clockwise which is known as Z twist, counter clockwise which is known as S twist. The twist stays the same no matter what end of the spun yarn you are looking at. If you spin the singles in one direction you ply (joining two or more singles together) in the other direction.
All the yarn on the table are singles with a Z twist.
The fibers in a woolen yarn are not inline and go in all different directions, this results in a light, airy yarn with lots of bounce. Usually spun from rolags, the product of wool carding, which allows for the use of shorter fibers (under 3 inches). It is spun using the long draw method. The airy nature of a woolen yarn means it is very warm. Woolen yarn is often used as the weft in the weave of a warmer fabric.
In a worsted yarn all the fibers are aligned parallel to one another, this results in a strong, abrasion resistant, and can be various degrees of shinny. The prep for worsted yarn is wool combing; this creates combed top, and is made with long fibers (over 3 inches). Worsted yarn is often considered luxurious and is used to make fine wool suits. The strong nature of a worsted yarn makes it a good choice for socks or the warp of a weave.
Wool Combs are a tool for processing wool from the early iron age. They have handles made of wood and teeth made out of sharp iron nails. The process of using wool combs, sorts out the short wool, creating a lot of waist wool (or can be used for carding) The product of the wool combing process is combed top which is used to make a worsted yarn.
The pitch of a wool comb is how many rows of teeth it has, a finer set of wool combs would have multiple sets of teeth spaced closer together while a coarse set might only have one row spaced further apart.
Wool combing is done with a pair of combs. You load one of the combs with wool and then using the other, comb through the fibers transferring them to the empty comb. Once no more fibers are transferring to the other comb, the wool remaining on the first comb is removed and set aside and the process is repeated until all the fibers are aligned. The fiber is then removed from the combs by pulling it gently, A gauge is often used to create a length of combed top with an even width.
Grave finds in norway suggest that in the late iron age wool combs were used by women because out of the 116 graves that contained them where the sex could be determined 102 of them were women and 14 men. By later period it had become a trade done by men. Medieval wool combs were big and heavy and were heated on a fire making them slide through the wool easier.
I made my wool combs out of hardwood and sharpened nails. They are quite short in comparison to medieval wool combs and more closely resemble smaller more modern wool combs
Wool Cards are a tool for processing wool first recorded in France in the late 13th century. They have handles made out of wood and have hundreds of teeth made out of fine wire staples that are inserted into leather or, for more modern ones, rubber. Wool combs are used to make rolags, which are used to make woolen yarn. The teeth on the wool cards are bent slightly towards the handle. Wool Cards do not separate the fiber into lengths and can be done with a mix of fiber lengths including short fiber (under 3 inches).
Wool carding is done with a pair of cards. Starting by loading one with some fiber, and then using the other card, brush the fiber away from the handle of the card they are on. Doing this transfers the fibers from one comb to the other, continue to pass the fiber back and forth between the combs until all the fibers are aligned in the same direction. To take the fibers off the combs start by pinching the ends of the fiber that are hanging off the edge (opposite the handle) of the card between two sticks (I use knitting needles), roll (toward handle) the fiber off of the card onto the stick.
Thwaking is a yarn finishing technique where you take your wet yarn and hit it against something repeatedly. This increase the yarns strength by felting the fibers together.
The sheep of Northern Europe in the iron age were short tailed dual coated small (in comparison to modern) sheep. I choose to use the fleece of a Shetland sheep, an ancestor of the Northern Short Tail sheep. Shetlands are not the most historically accurate fleece for the iron age but it was as close as I could get within the resources I had. Unlike other other short tail breeds shetlands do not always have a dual coat.
This Fleece I used is the 2020 fall sheering of a sheep called Fudge. I choose this fleece because Fudge is dual coated, meaning she has both a top coat (guard hairs) which is coarse and an undercoat (the wool) which is soft . The two coats are often separated and used for different purposes.
The yarn made of the top coat is coarse and strong, it is often used in card weaving, some also use it as garden twine. The yarn made of the wool is primarily used in garment manufacturing weather that be weaving, knitting, nalbinding or some other process
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It is hard to determine the age of the Turkish cross armed spindle, because they are usually made entirely out of wood and biodegrade over time, however they are thought to be a very old form of Spindle. The turkish spindle consists of 3 parts, the shaft and two arms, often one will nestle inside the other before they are put on the shaft, that create the signature cross whorl. Finished lengths of yarn are wound onto the arms in a over two under one pattern, this forms the cop of the cross armed spindle. Once the spin is done the cop along with the arms can be removed from the shaft, the arms are then pulled out creating a center pull ball. Turkish spindles are often a bottom whorl, giving them stability with a lower center of gravity, and are often used for suspended spinning.
Wet setting is a method of finishing the yarn that relaxes and slightly felts the fibers creating a sturdier yarn that does not want to untwist. Wet setting is done by adding the spun yarn to hot water and letting it soak for a half hour or until it cools. Next remove the wool from the water and remove excess water by rolling it in a towel, then hanging up to dry. A weight can be added during the drying process to help the fibers relax, this is especially important for an over twisted single ply yarn.
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The earliest evidence of spindles are whorls dating back 7000 years found on the Arabian Peninsula, but are thought to be older because spindles are often made entirely out of biodegradable material like wood and bone. Spindles have two main parts, the shaft, a stick often made of wood, and an optional whorl that can be made of many different materials such as wood, bone, rock, clay, porcelain, or glass. The whorl adds weight to the spindle giving it more momentum when spun and can be found at any position on the shaft.
Suspended spinning is done by letting the spindle drop as more yarn is created. Fiber is either held in hand or wound on a distaff (a stick used for holding fiber) from where it is drafted (gently pulled out). The spindle is spun creating a twist in the fiber, which is then allowed to travel up the drafted fiber. When a length of spun yarn is done it is then wound onto the shaft of the spindle to create the cop.
“Woolen vs Worsted.” Hilltop Cloud, 25 Oct. 2016, www.hilltopcloud.co.uk/blog/woolen-vs-worsted.
“A Short History on Wool Combing.” Wovember, 12 Nov. 2013, wovember.wordpress.com/2013/11/13/a-short-history-on-wool-combing/.
“Wool Combs in the Viking Age - The Evidence.” Vidars Horde, www.vidars-horde.de/en/a-for-articles/wool-combs-in-the-viking-age-the-evidence. Accessed 26 Apr. 2024.
Saemundarson, Bjorn. “Wool Combs.” Bjorn This Way, 7 June 2020, bjornthisway.wordpress.com/2020/02/07/wool-combs/.
“A Short History on Wool Carding.” Wovember, 13 Nov. 2013, wovember.wordpress.com/2013/11/14/a-short-history-on-wool-carding/.
“Brief History of Spinning Wool.” Woollen Wytch, 1 July 2020, woollenwytch.co.uk/blogs/news/brief-history-of-spinning-wool#:~:text=The%20Drop%20spindle%20has%20been,yarn%20is%20wound%20after%20twisting.
“History of Handspindles.” History Of Handspindles | World In A Spin, www.worldinaspin.com/articles/history-handspindles. Accessed 26 Apr. 2024.
Rast-Eicher , Antoinette, and Lise Bender Jørgensen. “Sheep Wool in Bronze Age and Iron Age Europe.” Journal of Archaeological Science, Academic Press, 6 Oct. 2012, www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0305440312004323.
Bitchy, Mini. “Iron Age Processing and Its Effects on Yarn Production.” Aethelfliedbrewbane, 12 Nov. 2018, aethelfliedbrewbane.wordpress.com/2018/11/12/iron-age-processing-and-its-effects-on-yarn-production/.
Cleaton, Mary Ann Megan, et al. “Recreating Historic European Spindle Spinning.” EXARC Journal, 26 May 2021, exarc.net/issue-2021-2/at/recreating-historic-european-spindle-spinning.